Snooth.com - recent reviews by dmcker

Vallformosa Penedès Tempranillo/Cabernet Sauvignon Gran Reserva 2008

Fri, 15 Jan 2010 11:39:12 -0500

Name: Vallformosa Penedès Tempranillo/Cabernet Sauvignon Gran Reserva
Vintage: 2008
Varietal: Tempranillo; cabernet sauvignon
Winery: Vallformosa
Region: Spain > Catalunya > Penedès
Price: $26.88
SnoothRank: 2.5/5

dmcker's Rating: 2.5/5
dmcker's Review: Had this tonight as the third wine of the evening, following a prosecco and a younger sister from the same winery that was a blend of syrah and tempranillo. Food was tapas style, starting with grilled and butter-sauteed scallops with the prosecco, followed by roast chicken, grilled home-made pork sausage, yakitori-style duck, shiitake, zucchini and onion, and some sauteed turnips in garlic with the reds.

This wine was deeper, rounder and a more serious offering than the syrah-tempranillo younger sibling. It spoke more of cabernet than tempranillo, but there was an underlying element in the blend that kept the cab from spreading its wings as much as it might have. Good nose of cab and cassis, soft tannins, mild acidity and medium finish. A fine enough wine with the grilled meats and other tapas, and for everyday drinking.

As posted on Snooth

Château de Musset 2001

Tue, 05 Jan 2010 02:07:30 -0500

Name: Château de Musset
Vintage: 2001
Varietal: Merlot 77%; Cabernet Sauvignon 19%; Cabernet Franc 2%; Malbec 2%
Winery: Château de Musset
Region: France > Bordeaux > Lalande de Pomerol
Price: $34.33
SnoothRank: 3/5

dmcker's Rating: 3/5
dmcker's Review: Last night had a Château de Musset from the 2001 vintage. A right bank Bordeaux blend, AOC Lalande de Pomerol, that is more affordable than any of the others I've mentioned (recent vintages approx.10 euros at market in France, 30 at restaurant; 3000 yen at market in Tokyo). Went very well with some lamb chops, a pinenut and komatsuna (a hardier, slightly bitter relative of spinach) pilaf and a cheesy, creamy gratin of cauliflower. Merlot 77%, Cabernet Sauvignon 19%, Cabernet Franc 2%, Malbec 2% (fairly detailed tweaking there by the vintner, it would seem).

The robe was an intense ruby to garnet and even purple (nearly all the way to the edge of the meniscus, one sign the wine is still relatively young). An expressive nose, with aromas (and flavors on the palate) of red berries (red currants, cherries, raspberries and even a little strawberry). With the bottle's current age it was also expressing leather, a bit of cocoa, tobacco and hints of something slightly gamy. Some very slight prune essence, as well. Soft yet fresh and straightforward opening on the palate, body ample and a bit fleshy yet silky, tannins apparent yet married well with the fruit. Medium finish.

This isn't that well known or widely distributed a wine, and checking the Guide Hachette they recommend to drink it up in two or three years. My experience from last night is different. With the tobacco and leather now coming out, a generally delicious bouquet at the moment that seems like it can evolve further, the youthfully healthy appearance and mouthfeel of the obviously well-stored bottle, I think this can mature well for a few more years.

As posted on Snooth

Dog Point Sauvignon Blanc 2008

Sun, 03 Jan 2010 22:36:22 -0500

Name: Dog Point Sauvignon Blanc
Vintage: 2008
Varietal: Sauvignon Blanc
Winery: Dog Point Vineyard
Region: New Zealand
Price: $22.44
SnoothRank: 3.5/5

dmcker's Rating: 2.5/5
dmcker's Review: To me this is near the epitome of wrongheaded winemaking. A sauvignon blanc that wants to be a chardonnay, and a dodgily balanced New World chardonnay at that. It takes the Cloudy Bay trend and extends it even further, though as a wine it is comparatively less bad than its role model (perhaps in a perverse way because of the chard-style amelioration). I'm curious how many cups a winemaker from the Loire or the Graves would give it (in private, of course).

Very light color, clear with a golden tinge. So far, no problem.

Attack like a chardonnay blunderbuss. An increasing crescendo of green apples until that's almost all there was after 30 minutes. All I could think was 'malolactic' (whether or not they did a second fermentation). Not enough depth, too much residual sweetness. Too angular and broad, not enough refinement and no rapier-like penetration. Too granular across the tongue. Too much grass and even green pepper, in amongst the green apples. Good acid, but poor balance.

Something was there that hinted at potential greatness. But overall that was a lie, for what was delivered was an awful deformation of SB's potential. A typical example of a New Zealand SB style, but a poor sauvignon blanc wine. One thing I will say for it, as a kind of left-handed compliment, is that I like it better than the 2008 Cloudy Bay SB. I guess I must like a wine that forces APPLES on my palate better than one that moans of not much else but shallow, short and flat, low-acid grapefruit. And as a breakfast fruit, grapefruit is one of my favorites...

As posted on Snooth

Clos Triguedina Cahors Prince Probus 2000

Sun, 03 Jan 2010 22:11:49 -0500

Name: Clos Triguedina Cahors Prince Probus
Vintage: 2000
Varietal: Malbec
Winery: Clos Triguedina
Region: France > South West France > Garonne > Cahors
Price: $71.48
SnoothRank: 3.5/5

dmcker's Rating: 3.5/5
dmcker's Review: The Trindadina Probus is a wine that I would guess more people might like than the New Black Wine I referred to before. A bit more approachable and 'modern', though strangely enough it's 100% malbec (the local term they use is Auxerrois), while the Black Wine is an 80% malbec, 15% Merlot, 5% Tannat blend. Cardinal red with purple and a brilliant sheen to look at. An elegant punch in the nose of roast coffee, spice and sweet fruit, with both rich strength and exotic delicacy. A boldly complex palate, with strongly concentrated ripe berries and firm yet smooth tannins. Bold is the theme in flavor and style, with a little too much oak right now, although the structure is good enough that this should integrate well with more age.

As posted on Snooth

Clos Triguedina Cahors New Black Wine 2000

Sun, 03 Jan 2010 22:08:04 -0500

Name: Clos Triguedina Cahors New Black Wine
Vintage: 2000
Varietal: Malbec
Winery: Clos Triguedina
Region: France > South West France > Garonne > Cahors
Price: $94.28
SnoothRank: 3.5/5

dmcker's Rating: 3.5/5
dmcker's Review: The manager of the place offered me a taste of the 2000 version of the Clos Triguedina New Black Wine, the 1999 of which I described earlier. It would appear that 2000 was a better vintage than the 1999, because the 2000 was even more massively structured with more smoky fruit on the nose and palate. A most savoury wine with chewily textured tannins. This version of the two (the other being the Prince Probus) from Triguedina is definitely more traditional, aiming at a throwback to the black Cahors malbec of yore, and if you like this grape you should try this wine.

As posted on Snooth

Clos Triguedina Cahors New Black Wine 1999

Sun, 03 Jan 2010 22:02:11 -0500

Name: Clos Triguedina Cahors New Black Wine
Vintage: 1999
Varietal: Malbec
Winery: Clos Triguedina
Region: France > South West France > Garonne > Cahors
Price: $51.90
SnoothRank: 3.5/5

dmcker's Rating: 3.5/5
dmcker's Review: Most recently I've had a couple of bottles of the '99 Clos Triguedina The New Black Wine, AOC Cahors. It's definitely part of the tradition of 'Black Cahors', with a *very* dark color. Dried fruit that's been candied, pureed and made into jam on the nose. Layers within layers. On the palate wild berries, spice, truffles, aromatic herbs. Nicely chewy texture. Obviously laid down in oak at the winery (1/3 new barrels, I believe) so plenty of tannins, and I got the impression the wine would age quite well. The bottles were allowed to breathe for three hours before drinking but still tasted young.

The wine paired extremely well with game. Had it once with duck à l’orange, the other time with venison in a Cumberland sauce. Magnifique! I felt the wine would very likely go well with a number of braised red meats, and of course would stand up to even aged cheeses.

As posted on Snooth

Les Forts de Latour Pauillac 1996

Mon, 21 Dec 2009 19:45:56 -0500

Name: Les Forts de Latour Pauillac
Vintage: 1996
Varietal: Bordeaux Blend
Winery: Les Forts de Latour
Region: France > Bordeaux > Pauillac
Price: $75.33
SnoothRank: 4/5

dmcker's Rating: 4.5/5
dmcker's Review: The most popular wine I served at Thanksgiving this year was the '96 Les Forts de Latour, though all the other wine was seriously complimented (and all the bottles emptied). It had an utterly fantastic nose--in fact it's harder to imagine a more representative bouquet of cabernet sauvignon than from those three bottles. Since we were all pretty well into our cups by the time it was poured, enjoying each others company and the food, there were several loud moans of pleasure as glasses were brought to nose. ;-) It was also a great match for both the turkey and especially the duck confit we were eating

'96 was a big year so the wine itself was still quite closed with very dry tannins on opening. A bit hard and stony, even after 13 years. But since I opened the bottles nearly four hours before dinner, the wine was a very different animal, far more civilized, by the time we were drinking it. Purplish-tinged ruby hue, classic cedar and pencil lead and dark fruit screaming CABERNET and Merlot on the nose. Loads of cassis and some tobacco on the palate, with the stoniness changed to a sophisticated minerality. Still a bit of reserve, with plenty of pepper midway, but with a sweetness to the fruit and evolved forwardness quite different from its big brother at a similar stage (I assume so since that has always been the case before, though I haven't yet had a Latour from '96--nor do I feel any rush to do so after current tasting of Les Forts; the Latour can wait for a few more years... ;-) ). Medium long finish.

A lovely, refined wine that on its own would be a match for many, many of the classified growths in Bordeaux--I don't really view this as a 'second label', but a proper fine wine with a character of its own. And, it will almost certainly be drinking even better five to 10 years from now....

As posted on Snooth

Chateau Saint-Christoly 2005

Fri, 27 Nov 2009 19:59:28 -0500

Name: Chateau Saint-Christoly
Vintage: 2005
Varietal: Merlot; Cabernet Sauvignon
Region: France > Bordeaux > Médoc
Price: $23.00
SnoothRank: 3.5/5

dmcker's Rating: 3/5
dmcker's Review: A friend served the 2005 with a magret of duck and cepes mushrooms, for which it was a great match. Deep cherry-red color, supple wine with a rounded bouquet. Spice, red fruit and cassis on the nose and palate. Decent glycerin legs, and the oak seemed well integrated. Medium-length finish. Quite enjoyable, at a very nice, intimate dinner at my friend's place. Lamb also would've been a good match, I remember thinking. 45% merlot, 55% cabernet sauvignon.

As posted on Snooth

Gamage Entre-Deux-Mers 2007

Sat, 12 Sep 2009 08:11:44 -0400

Name: Gamage Entre-Deux-Mers
Vintage: 2007
Varietal: Sauvignon blanc blend
Winery: Gamage
Region: France > Bordeaux > Entre-deux-mers
SnoothRank: 3/5

dmcker's Rating: 3/5
dmcker's Review: Well more than a carafe wine, not at all the traditionally mellow, soft and sweetish wines that were common in the past from entre-deux-mers. Good SB minerality and a fresh, crisp acid bite from this remarkable value for a $7 'supermarket' wine. Good balance, short-to-medium finish. Excellent with shellfish, crustaceans and smoked fish.

As posted on Snooth

Tenuta Dell'Ornellaia Masseto 2006

Sat, 12 Sep 2009 04:53:52 -0400

Name: Tenuta Dell'Ornellaia Masseto
Vintage: 2006
Varietal: Cabernet Sauvignon
Winery: Tenuta dell'Ornellaia
Region: Italy > Tuscany > Bolgheri > Bolgheri Sassicaia
Price: $379.99
SnoothRank: 3.5/5

dmcker's Rating: 4/5
dmcker's Review: Drank at dinner in Tokyo, September 2009, with a Sardinian lamb and chestnut stew, and a cheese plate. The Masseto, which we had second after an excellent Chianti earlier in the meal, was my first experience with the wine. A truly, massively rich and deep merlot, with lots of oak showing. Tuscany does the Right Bank, in spades. Just in process of being released to market. Still has a greenish aspect. Wildflowers, licorice, cherries, hints of leather, rubber, earth and mint. Great balance, clarity, long finish but the oak needs more time to integrate. Very ripe, though with an acidity high enough to counterbalance. I have a lot more I could say about this eye-opening wine, and was most glad to make its acquaintance, but personally would prefer to drink it after it had considerably more age. When I buy some of it (after a careful search for the cheapest, most reliable vendor, since it is very pricey), I fully intend to discipline myself to let it lay for five, ten, fifteen years or more. A very different statement from the winery than their Ornellaia cab blend, which I've had several times before.

As posted on Snooth